The last farms of East Africa that leave places better

Why Norway's least accessible coastline attracts exactly the wrong kind of traveller — and what locals think about it.
Picture of Laetitia Hörnler
Laetitia Hörnler

Editor-in-Chief · Veriva Magazine

Gibb's Farm, Tanzania
Gibb's Farm, Tanzania

She joined Veriva's Insider Voices as a founding contributor because she believes honest editorial independence is the rarest thing in travel journalism today — and the most necessary.

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Claire Coakley is a freelance travel journalist whose work centres on the relationship between place, food, and community. She writes for Condé Nast Traveller and a range of international publications, with a particular focus on the Atlantic edge of Europe — Ireland, Portugal, the Basque Country — and the small producers, chefs, and hoteliers who are doing something genuinely different.



She joined Veriva’s Insider Voices as a founding contributor because she believes honest editorial independence is the rarest thing in travel journalism today — and the most necessary.

Condé Nast Traveller and a range of international publications, with a particular focus on the Atlantic edge of Europe — Ireland, Portugal, the Basque Country — and the small producers, chefs, and hoteliers who are doing something genuinely different. She joined Veriva’s Insider Voices as a founding contributor because she believes honest editorial independence is the rarest thing in travel journalism today.

Image by Andre Dowson

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Condé Nast Traveller and a range of international publications, with a particular focus on the Atlantic edge of Europe — Ireland, Portugal, the Basque Country — and the small producers, chefs, and hoteliers who are doing something genuinely different. She joined Veriva’s Insider Voices as a founding contributor because she believes honest editorial independence is the rarest thing in travel journalism today.

Regenerative hospitality in the Alps has a structural problem that the best practitioners acknowledge without resolution: the guests who come to experience an intact alpine community are, in sufficient numbers, the agents of that community’s transformation. Hartmann caps capacity at 28 rooms. He has declined to expand despite demand. He refers guests he cannot accommodate to two neighbouring guesthouses he trusts.

This is a position of deliberate restraint that most businesses cannot afford, but that the Bergwirt’s economics — low debt, family ownership, no investor pressure — make possible.

Image by Andre Dowson
Image by Andre Dowson

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The guest wing added in 2019 was built almost entirely from materials sourced within a 40-kilometre radius. Larch from the communal forest managed by the village. Stone from a local quarry. Wool insulation from a cooperative in the Inn valley. The architect, based in Innsbruck, had worked with all of these suppliers before. The construction cost was comparable to a conventional build. The embodied carbon was roughly 60% lower.

Regenerative tourism might initially sound like a concept for idealists. But anyone who spends a week in the Alentejo and experiences how food tastes when it was still in the field yesterday; anyone who chats with the cook in the evening, who also happens to be their neighbor; anyone who hikes through forests in the morning that grow because they are there—they understand: This isn’t an ideology. It’s simply better.

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Picture of Laetitia Hörnler
Laetitia Hörnler

Editor-in-Chief · Veriva Magazine

Laetitia has been traveling to the fringes of Europe for 12 years and writes about places that give back in their own unique way. Her focus is on Portugal, Greece, and the Balkan Peninsula.

More from the Magazine

Gibb's Farm, Tanzania
Why Norway's least accessible coastline attracts exactly the wrong kind of traveller — and what locals think about it.

Picture of Laetitia Hörnler
Laetitia Hörnler
Gibb's Farm, Tanzania
Why Norway's least accessible coastline attracts exactly the wrong kind of traveller — and what locals think about it.

Picture of Laetitia Hörnler
Laetitia Hörnler
Gibb's Farm, Tanzania
Why Norway's least accessible coastline attracts exactly the wrong kind of traveller — and what locals think about it.

Picture of Laetitia Hörnler
Laetitia Hörnler

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